Publications

Books

Vänskä A., Gurova O. (2024) Understanding Fashion Scandals. Social Media, Identity, and Globalization. Bloomsbury.

Gurova O. (2015) Fashion and the Consumer Revolution in Contemporary Russia. London and New York: Routledge. Please, find the book’s chapters at my Academia.edu profile.

Gurova O. (2008) Soviet Underwear: Between Ideology and Everyday Life [Sovetskoe nizhnee belio: mezhdu ideologiei i povsednevnost’u]. Moscow: New Literary Observer (in Russian).

Peer-reviewed journal articles and book chapters

Aliabieva L., Gurova O., Kucher I. (2025) Mending Matters: Cultures and Contexts of Clothing Repair, Fashion Theory, 29(7).

Gurova O. (2024) Practice theory approach to Gen Z’s sustainable clothing consumption in Finland, Young Consumers, 25(3), 289-307.

Vänskä A., Mickelsson S., Morozova D., Härkönen H., Gurova O., Pirjatanniemi E. (2023) Arctic childhood in data-driven culture: Wearable technology and children’s right to privacy in Finland, Critical Studies in Fashion and Beauty, 14(2), 263-285.

Gurova O., Vänskä A. (2023) Скандалы в индустрии моды: как бренды вызывают эмоции и как реагируют потребители (Fashion scandals: How brands evoke emotions and how consumers react). Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 67, 421-438 (in Russian).

Гурова О., Ромашко Т. (2023) Дискурс-анализ как метод анализа текста: опыт применения постструктуралистской теории дискурса для изучения конфликта в индустрии моды (Translated title of the contribution: Discourse analysis as a method of textual analysis: An experience of application of poststructuralist discourse theory for studying a conflict in fashion industry). In: Практики анализа качественных данных в социальных науках. Под ред. Е. Полухиной. М.: Изд-во НИУ ВШЭ, 58-80 (in Russian).

Vänskä A., Gurova O. (2022) The Fashion Scandal: Social media, identity and the globalization of fashion in the 21st century. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 9(1), 5-27.

Гурова О. (2022) В поиске мечты между двух миров: модели-блогерки (Translated title of the contribution: Models-bloggers in search of a dream between two worlds). Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture, 64, 269-291 (in Russian).

Romashko T., Gurova O. (2022). Постструктуралистская теория дискурса и ее методы исследования социокультурной реальности (Translated title of the contribution: Poststructuralist discourse theory and its methods of studying sociocultural reality). Sociodinamika, 10, 46-59 (in Russian).

Morozova D., Gurova O. (2021) How the Practice of Commercializing Comes Together and Falls Apart in a Market of Wearable Technologies. Journal of Consumer Culture. Published online ahead of print: https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/10.1177/1469540521990862

Morozova D., Gurova O. (2021) Being like others versus being different: Wearable technology and daily practices of consumers 50+ in Finland and Russia, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 45(6), 1335-1356.

Gurova O. (2021) In Search of a Moneymaking Machine: Policy Towards Fashion in Finland. International Journal of Fashion Studies, 8(1), 45-66.

Gurova O., Merritt T., Papachristos E., Vaajakari J. (2020) Sustainable Solutions for Wearable Technologies: Mapping the Product Development Lifecycle, Sustainability, 12(20), 8444.

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2020 online/2021 printed) Digitalization of Consumption in Russia: Online Platforms, Regulations and Consumer Behavior. The Palgrave Handbook of Digital Russia Studies. Ed. by Gritsenko D., Wijermars M. & M. Kopotev. Palgrave Macmillan, 221-240.

Morozova D., Gurova O. (2020) Коммерциализация умной одежды как практика: арт-, бизнес- и государственный проекты (Translated title of the contribution: Commercialisation of wearable technologies as a practice: cases of art-, business- and public projects). Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture (Russian edition), 56(2).

Chun N., Niinimäki K., & Gurova O. (2019) Fashion Dreams or Fashion Business: Helsinki as an Emerging Fashion Scene. Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture (Russian Edition), 51, 237-257.

Gurova O. (2019) Many Faces of Patriotism: Patriotic Dispositive and Creative (Counter-)Conduct of Russian Fashion Designers. Consumption, Markets & Culture, published online ahead of print.

Gurova O. (2019) Patriotism as Creative (Counter-)conduct of Russian Fashion Designers. In D. Bajde, D. Kjeldgaard, & R. Belk (Eds.), Consumer Culture Theory (pp. 151-168). Emerald Group Publishing. Research in Consumer Behavior, Vol.. 20 https://doi.org/10.1108/S0885-211120190000020015

Chun N., Gurova O. (2019) Place-Making the Local to Reach the Global: A Case Study of Pre-Helsinki. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion Industry, 11(1), 26-52. https://doi.org/10.1080/17569370.2018.1507168

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2019) “Там, где другие видят мусор, мы видим сокровища” : устойчивая мода в скандинавских странах (Translated title of the contribution: “Where others see waste, we see treasures”: Sustainable fashion in Scandinavian countries). Fashion Theory. The Journal of Dress, Body & Culture (Russian Edition), 52, 75-96.

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2018) A Critical Approach to Sustainable Fashion: Practices of Clothing Designers in the Kallio Neighborhood of Helsinki. Journal of Consumer Culture, 18(3), 397-413. https://doi.org/10.1177/1469540516668227

Gurova O. (2018) Consumer Culture in Socialist Russia. In O. Kravets, P. Maclaran, S. Miles, & A. Venkatesh (Eds.), The SAGE Handbook of Consumer Culture (pp. 102-123). SAGE Publications.

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2018) Creative Precarity? Young Fashion Designers as Entrepreneurs in Russia. Cultural Studies, 32(5), 704-726. https://doi.org/10.1080/09502386.2018.1428646

Gurova O. (2018) Время и мода: продолжительность жизни вещей в советском и постсоветском обществе (Translated title of the contribution: Fashion and time: The lifespan of things in Soviet and Post-Soviet Russia). STEPS/ШАГИ, 4(3-4), 68-96. https://doi.org/10.22394/2412-9410-2018-4-3-68-96

Gurova O. (2017) Political Consumerism in Russia after 2011. In Cultural Forms of Protest in Russia (pp. 90-104). Routledge.

Chun N., Gurova O., & Niinimäki K. (2017) Rethinking the Roles of Fashion Designers: The Case of Pre Helsinki. The Design Journal, 20(sup1), 4477-4486. https://doi.org/10.1080/14606925.2017.1352944

Gurova, O. (2017) Russia: Postsocialist Consumer Culture. In M. Keller, B. Halkier, T-A. Wilska, & M. Truninger (Eds.), Routledge Handbook on Consumption (pp. 189-201). Routledge. Routledge International Handbooks

Morozova D., Gurova O. (2017) “Следуя устойчивой моде”: изучение практики финских дизайнеров одежды с помощью исследовательского фильма (Translated title of the contribution: Following sustainable fashion: The use of research-based film to study the Finnish fashion designers’ practices). Интер: Интеракция, Интервью, Интерпретация, 14, 72-84.

Gurova O., Ratilainen S. (2016) From Shuttle Trader to Middle-class Consumer: Images of Russian Tourists in Finnish Mass Media. Scandinavian Journal of Hospitality and Tourism, 16(1), 51-65.

Gurova O. (2016) Современные концепции (производства) моды в социологии (Translated title of the contribution: Contemporary concepts of (production of) fashion in sociology). Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial’noi antropologii, XIX(3), 136-147.

Gurova O., Ratilainen S. (2015) «Турист с востока»: очерк о восприятии российского потребителя финской прессой (Translated title of the contribution: “Eastern Tourist”: The Image of Russian Consumers in the Finnish Media). Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, 16(3), 26-45.

Gurova O. (2015) Ideology of Consumption in the Soviet Union. In Communism and Consumerism. The Soviet Alternative to the Affluent Society. (pp. 68-84). Brill .

Gurova O. (2014) Institutionalization of the Sociology of Consumption in Russia. Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, 15(4), 76-106.

Ratilainen S., Gurova O. (2014). Itäturisti venäläisen kuluttamisen suunnannäyttäjänä. Idäntutkimus, (2), 3-15.

Gurova O. (2014) Институционализация социологии потребления в России. Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, 15(2), 24-64.

Gurova O. (2014) Послесловие: Подходы к изучению постсоциализма (Translated title of the contribution: Approached to postsocialism). Этнографическое обозрение, 3, 106-109.

Gurova O. (2014) У вас так ярко одевается народ! Социальные различия в потреблении одежды в Санкт-Петербурге и Новосибирске (Translated title of the contribution: Social distinctions in clothing consumption in St. Petersburg and Novosibirsk). Этнографическое обозрение, 3, 52-70.

Gurova O. (2014) “Хантеры” и секонд-хенд потребление в Санкт-Петербурге (Translated title of the contribution: “Hunters” and the second-hand consumption in St. Petersburg). Labirint, 2, 117-125.

Gurova O. (2013) “Выглядеть по-русски”. Российские мигранты в Финляндии: социальные характеристики и потребление одежды (Translated title of the contribution: Looking “Russian”: Social Characteristics and Clothing Consumption of Russian Migrants in Finland). Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, (2), 17-41.

Gurova O. (2013) Семинар “Критический подход к потреблению и исследования потребления в пост-советских обществах” (Translated title of the contribution: Review of the seminar “Critical Approach to Consumption and Consumer Studies in Postsocialist States”). Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, (3), 185-191.

Gurova O. (2013) Shopping for Fashions in Post-Socialist Russia. In N. Mathur (Ed.), Consumer Culture, Modernity and Identity (pp. 237-264). Sage.

Gurova O. (2012) “We Are Not Rich Enough to Buy Cheap Things”: Clothing Consumption of the St. Petersburg Middle Class. In S. Salmenniemi (Ed.), Rethinking Class in Russia (pp. 149-166). Farnham: Ashgate.

Gurova O. (2012) Почему петербуржцы приезжают за покупками в Финляндию? Исследование трансграничного шопинга (Translated title of the contribution: From Russia to Finland: Exploring Cross-border Shopping). Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, 13(1), 18-37.

Gurova O. (2011) Социология моды: обзор классических концепций (Translated title of the contribution: Sociology of Fashion: An Overview of Classical Concepts). Sotsiologicheskie Issledovaniya, (8), 72-82.

Gurova O. (2011) Шопинг, одежда и типология потребителей в Санкт-Петербурге (Translated title of the contribution: Shopping for Clothes and A Typology of Shoppers in St. Petersburg). Журнал социологии и социальной антропологии, XIV(5), 129-142.

Harchenko Y., Gurova O. (2010) Спортинг: спорт, досуг и стили потребления в современной России (Translated title of the contribution: Sporting: Sport, Leisure and Consumption in Contemporary Russia). Ékonomičeskaâ sociologiâ, 11(2), 73-90.

Gurova O. (2009) The Art of Dressing. Body, Gender and Discourse on Fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950s and 60s. In: The Fabric of Cultures. Fashion, Identity, Globalization. Ed. by E. Paulicelli & H. Clark. London, New York: Routledge. P. 73-91.

Gurova O. (2009) Fashion and Social Changes in Contemporary Russian City (Translated; original title of the contribution: Moda i vizualizatsiia sotsial’nykh izmenenii v sovremennom gorode). In: Visual Anthropology: Urban Memory Cards / Menthal Maps. Ed. by P. Romanov & E. Iarskaia-Smirnova. Moscow: Variant, CSPGS, 2009. P. 275-293 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2009) “Glossy”: An Ideology of Fashion in Contemporary Russian Culture (Translated; original title of the contribution: «Glianets»:ideologiia mody v sovremennom obshchestve). In: Visual Anthropology: Tuning the Lens. Ed. by E. Iarskaia-Smirnova & P. Romanov. Moscow: Variant, CSPGS. P. 246-256 (in Russian).

Mihailova O., Gurova O. (2009) Consumer in Mall: Consumer Freedom and How Mall Takes It Under Control (Translated; original title of the contribution: Potrebitel’ v molle: mezhdu svobodoi vybora i strategiiami ogranicheniia potrebitel’skogo povedeniia). Ekonomicheskaia sotsiologiia. Vol. 10. Issue 3. P. 41-57 (in Russian). This article won the Best Article in Economic Sociology Award established by the journal.

Gurova O. (2009) The Life Span of Things in Soviet Society. Notes on the Sociology of Underwear. Russian Social Science Review. Vol. 50. № 4. P. 49-60; Russian Studies in History. Vol. 48. № 1. P. 46-57.

Gurova O. (2008) Fast Fashion and Consumer Practices in Contemporary Russia (Translated; original title of the contribution: Bystraia moda: kontseptsiia mody i potreblenie veshchei v sovremennom rossiiskom obshchestve]. Economic Sociology. Vol. 9. № 5. P. 56-67 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2007) Unseductive Stockings: Underwear and Representations of Body in Soviet Culture (Translated; original title of the contribution: «Chulki povyshennoi zebristosti»: nizhnee belio i reprezentatsii tela v sovetskoi kul’ture). Teoriia mody. Spring. № 3. P. 265-287 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2006) Ideology of Consumption in the Soviet Union: From Asceticism to Legitimating of Consumer Goods. Anthropology of East Europe Review. Autumn. Vol. 24. № 2. P. 91-102.

Gurova O. (2006) Ideology of Consumption in Soviet Russia (Translated; original title of the contribution: Ideologiia potrebleniia v sovetskoi Rossii). Sotsiologicheskii zhurnal. № 4. P. 117-131 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2004) Underwear as a Private Object in Soviet Culture (Translated; original title of the contribution: Nizhnee belio v sovetskoi kul’ture: osobennosti privatnoi veshchi). Zhurnal sotsiologii i sotsial’noi antropologii. № 2. Vol. VII. P. 99-115 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2004) The Life Cycle of Things in Soviet Culture: Notes on Sociology of Underwear (Translated; original title of the contribution: Prodolzhitel’nost’ zhizni veshchei v sovetskom obshchestve: zametki po sotsiologii nizhnego belia). Neprikosnovennyi zapas. № 34. P. 78-84 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2004) “Simplicity” and the “Sense of Moderation”: Underwear and Ideology of Fashion in Soviet Russia in the 1950 and 60s (Translated; original title of the contribution: «Prostota i chuvstvo mery»: nizhnee belio i ideologiia mody v Sovetskoi Rossii v 1950-60-e gody). Gendernye issledovaniia. № 10. P. 154–165 (in Russian).

Edited volumes and journal issues

Aliabieva L., Gurova O. & I. Kucher Mending Matters. Special issue of Fashion Theory (work-in-progress).

Beumers B., Gurova O., Etkind A. & S. Turoma (2018) Cultural Forms of Political Protest in Russia. London & New York: Routledge.

Gurova O., Kalinina E., Labov J., & Strukov V. (2017). Patriotic (Non) Consumption: Food, Fashion and Media. An Introduction. Digital Icons Studies in Russian, Eurasian and Central European New Media, Issues 16 and 17.

Gurova O., Tolkacheva A. (2014). Критический подход к потреблению (Translated title of the thematic issue: Critical approach to consumption: Introduction to thematic issue). Labirint, Issue 2.

Habeck J. O., Gurova O. (2014) Пространство, потребление и идентичности в пост-социалистических странах (Translated title of the thematic issue: Space, consumption and identities in post-socialist countries). Etnograficheskoe obozrenie, Issue 3.

Ratilainen S., Gurova O. (2014) Idäntutkimus. №2. Thematic issue Kulutus (Consumption, in Finnish).

Tolkacheva A., Ermolaeva, P., & Gurova O. (2014) Labirint [Labyrinth] №2. Thematic issue “Critical approach to consumption”

Danilova N., Gurova O. & Zhidkova N. (2008) Публичная политика: от теории к практике (Translated title of the edited volume: Public Policy: From Theory to Practice) St. Petersburg: Aleteia. 358 p.

Reviews

Gurova O. (2022) Clothing as Infrastructure of Intimacy. Review to exhibition “Intimacy” at the Design Museum, Helsinki. October 8 2021 – March 13 2022. Fashion Theory: Dress, body, culture. №63. P. 296-301 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2013) Review to: Finnish Consumption. An Emerging Consumer Society between East and West / Ed. by V. Heinonen & M. Peltonen. Helsinki: Finnish Literature Society, Kulutustutkimus.nyt. №2. P. 65-68.

Gurova O. (2013) Review to seminar “Critical Approach to Consumption and Consumer Studies in Postsocialist Countries”. Ekonomicheskaia sotsiologiia. №3. P. 185-191 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2012) Review to: Bartlett D. FashionEast. The Spectre that Haunted Socialism. The MIT Press, 2011. Aspasia. №7. P. 223-226.

Gurova O. (2011) Review to: Ruane C. The Empire’s New Clothes. A History of Russian Fashion Industry, 1700-1917. The Russian Journal of Communication. Vol. 4. №3/4. P. 376-378. http://www.russcomm.ru/rca_biblio/text/RJCVol4Nos3-4.pdf

Gurova O. (2007) Review to: Paulicelli E. Fashion under Fascism. Beyond the Black Shirt. BERG, 2004. Ab Imperio. № 3. P. 77-83 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2006) Review to the conferences «Fabrics of Cultures. Fashion, Identity & Globalization» (10.03.2006) & «Producing and Consuming fashion: Identity in a Global Context» (24.04.2006). City University of New York, USA. Teoriia mody. Autumn. № 1. P. 297-299 (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2005) Review to: Soviet State – Popular State? Studies on Popular Opinion in the USSR / Ed. by T. Vihavainen. St. Petersburg, 2003. 337 p. Ab Imperio. № 2. P. 568-572 (in Russian).

Publications aimed at general public

(based on my film, interviews, presentations or articles)

Prits E., Gurova O. (2024) Crafting Consciousness in Fashion: An Upcycling Workshop for Gen Z, Laurea Journal, https://journal.laurea.fi/crafting-consciousness-in-fashionan-upcycling-workshop-for-gen-z/#0e531d5f.

Prits E., Gurova O., Kortesalmi M. (2023) Design thinking workshop as an educational nudge for sustainable fashion consumption, Laurea Journal, https://journal.laurea.fi/design-thinking-workshop-as-an-educational-nudge-for-sustainable-fashion-consumption/#0e531d5f.

Prits E., Gurova O. (2023) Understanding Generation Z’s (un)sustainable fashion consumption: Insights from an Empathy Workshop for the VISU project, Laurea Journal, https://journal.laurea.fi/understanding-generation-zs-unsustainable-fashion-consumption-insights-from-an-empathy-workshop-for-the-visu-project/#0e531d5f.

Manakina A. (2021) Культурная аппроприация. Как избежать скандала, вдохновляясь чужой культурой (Translation of the title: Cultural appropriation. How to avoid a scandal when getting inspired by another culture?) https://beinopen.ru/special/local_cultural_appropriation?fbclid=IwAR2MYinsBsKfHFywKruURb3DpDrCvx8h4jC1oLV4egpoL0hKficqHd9PDRw

Fedorov A. (2021) Beneath the spy costumes, Black Widow tries to nail post-soviet style, GQ, https://www.gq.com/story/black-widow-post-soviet-style?fbclid=IwAR2JVaVudO-C3pPeXaF1nG3RyMTJo_tdQ4Q7ZnCqFwVreM_zW6QZIdlyfEI

Gurova O. (2020) The significance of sustainability grows in the world. Russian fashion industry has started to recognize it after delay, https://beinopen.institute/research/changes2020

Gurova O. (2017) How the state supports fashion industry in Finland, https://www.be-in.ru/blogs/39501-kak-gosudarstvo-podderzhivaet-modnuyu-industriyu-v-finlyandii/

Simm F. (2017) Dressed to kill …the environment, TheProspektMagazine, http://www.prospektmag.com/2017/01/dressed-kill-environment/

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2016) Interview with Hanna Riiheläinen, co-founder of R/H, http://www.be-in.ru/people/37705-hanna-riihelyajnen-soosnovatelnica-marki-rh/ (in Russian)

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2016) Interview with Julia Männistö, founder and designer of mannisto.co, http://www.be-in.ru/people/37424-dzhuliya-myannistyo-osnovatel-marki-mannistoco/ (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2016) В чем особенность патриотического феномена в моде? (What does patriotism in fashion mean?), http://www.be-in.ru/ideas/37005-chto-takoe-patriotizm-v-mode/ (in Russian).

Gurova O., Morozova D. (2016) Interview with Samu-Jussi Koski, founder and creative director of Samuji, http://www.be-in.ru/people/36981-samu-yussi-koski-osnovatel-i-kreativnyj-direktor-samuji/ (in Russian).

Gurova O. (2016) Как развивается устойчивая мода в скандинавских странах? (How sustainable fashion evolves in Scandinavia), 24.06.2016, http://www.be-in.ru/blogslist/36866-sustainable-fashion/ (in Russian).

Heikkinen J. (2015) Kallio houkuttelee luovia yrittäjiä, Tieteestä & taiteesta, November 10 2015, http://tieteestajataiteesta.fi/kallio-houkuttelee-luovia-yrittajia/ (in Finnish).

Neyaskin G. (2013) “When I wear a fur coat, everyone knows I’m Russian”, ru, April 2 2013, https://slon.ru/russia/mekh_brendy_i_leopardovye_printy_kak_uznat_russkogo_migranta_v_evrope-926525.xhtml (in Russian)

Abrahams M. (2006) Red stars and bras, The Guardian, Tuesday, February 21 2006,

Audiovisual materials

Artistic film “Clothing Odyssey 2020“

Research-based film “Take It Slow! Sustainable Fashion for Local Community in Kallio, Helsinki”, trailer Public screenings: Arkadia International Book store, Kallio library (Helsinki, Finland, 5.02 and 22.03.2016); Cleaning day program (Kyoto, Japan, 28.05.106).